2023 Watch Awards - Part 1
The first five of my favorite watches released in 2023.
As the first post (of many) in 2024, I thought it would be fitting to start the year with a few of my top watch releases of 2023. Being conservative, it was a good year for watches. We had a few surprises - ups and downs in the market, a few big moves in the industry, and, best of all, lots of new, unexpected watches. This is by no means an exhaustive list of my favorites - there were many more. In an attempt the make it more consumable, I have broken up my top 15 picks into three posts over the next few weeks.
While I know this is entirely subjective, I hope you enjoy the first five of my top picks for 2023.
Value Luxury Pick: Tudor Black Bay Burgundy
This year Tudor gave us the third generation of their Black Bay lineup. We didn't receive a full model line refresh, but received just an updated Black Bay Burgundy. I expect in time we will receive the same upgrades to the remaining standard Black Bay colors - the black and blue variants.
Tudor has significantly improved each generation of Black Bays since it’s original release in 2012 and this new generation does not disappoint. One of the biggest improvements in the new Burgundy is the case dimensions. This latest version retains the 41mm case size, but the thickness has been reduced by 1mm and the mid-case has also been thinned out, reducing it’s visual presence. These changes give the Black Bay a more balanced feel and make the watch wear much closer to the wrist.
The movement was also updated to a METAS certified MT-5602. This certification adds another level to the already COSC certified movement. For a watch to obtain a Master Chronometer certification, there are two certifications needed. First, the movement needs to be COSC certified. After this, the assembled watch goes through the METAS testing for magnetism, accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance. The Master Chronometer designation is one of the best in the industry - it assures the consumer that the watch is magnetic resistant, can perform to the stated standards of power reserve and water resistance, and is performing with an accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds a day. This is a huge plus for us watch worry warts, as for most of us, our watch has already been tested more rigorously than we will ever be able to test it in daily life.
The last major improvement for the new Black Bay is the updated bracelet and strap options available. It is now sold with the choice between a five-link bracelet, riveted bracelet, or a cut-to-size rubber strap. All three options also come with the T-Fit micro-adjust system in the clasp. Gone are the days of the included fabric strap, but I think the new strap options more than offset this change. All these design, movement, and strap improvements do come with a slight price increase - but for only $325 more, I think it more than justifies the additional cost.
Tudor, similar to its bigger brother, now seems to be transitioning to an evolutionary approach to slowly refine and improve their model ranges. As of today, the Black Bay range has only been around for just over ten years, and each new generation has seen significant improvements over the previous. Tudor seems to be listening to us though - this new generation has solved the biggest complaints we have had with the Black Bay range. I’m hoping Tudor will continue to slowly roll these improvements out across the Black Bay lineup, and their execution in this latest variant seems to be strengthening the Tudor brand, providing the industry a, if not, the value luxury pick at its price point.
So - if you had previously been considering the Black Bay Burgundy, but didn't pull the trigger because of 1) the size and thickness, or 2) the lack of a micro-adjust system in the bracelet, now is the time. If burgundy is not your thing, I would hold tight. It is very hard to argue the value of the new Tudor Black Bay Burgundy jam packed with new feature for only a few hundred dollars more - and now a Master Chronometer as well? How can you possibly argue with that?
More details about the watch can be found here.
Best Revival: Louis Vuitton Tambour
The Tambour was the first watch released by Louis Vuitton at the inception of their watchmaking department in 2001. This past year, Louis Vuitton brought us a new generation of the Tambour - arguably the biggest release under Jean Arnault's new helm as Watch Director. Arnault’s approach has been to bring Louis Vuitton's watchmaking department up market with in-house development and haute horology quality, dialing in his scope for the true collectors. The release of the new Tambour is the biggest step he’s taken towards elevating the brands watches since joining LV, and it shows to what extent they are willing to go to increase the quality of Louis Vuitton watches.
The latest Tambour still stays true to its design roots, but has been redesigned from the ground up. It now sports a lugless case design and a sharp-looking integrated bracelet. Inside is a chronometer grade micro-rotor movement, which is also the first proprietary time-only movement designed in-house by Louis Vuitton. The dial is clean, the movement is beautiful, and the bracelet is recognizable. While it is significantly more expensive than the Tambour’s of the past, the overall package is strong enough to justify the new price point.
The new Tambour is executed at a shockingly high level when compared to the Tambours of the past. Yes - the price also also reflects this change, as the new steel variants start at $18,500, a mere $15,810 more than the previous entry level quartz version. This puts Louis Vuitton in a interesting business segment. The Louis Vuitton brand is known globally as a luxury fashion house, any my initial thoughts were it can do one of two things for the brand: 1) assist with bringing in new enthusiasts who are already receptive to the brand into a new higher price segment, or 2) further deter enthusiasts who previously entertained LV watches at their previous price, but only see them as a fashion house watch, and thus exiting the market at more than 6x the previous price. Since it’s release, the former seems to be more accurate. So far, the Tambour seemed to be welcomed (if not embraced) by the serious collector community. Arnault's efforts seem to be trending in the right direction and I look forward to seeing where he takes the Louis Vuitton watchmaking department in the future.
On a personal note, I do really like the updates by Louis Vuitton. The Tambour is so well executed, it is attracting new and seasoned collectors alike - someone looking for something new, something beautiful, and something different. I appreciate the efforts Jean Arnault has taken to elevate their watchmaking department and and look forward to seeing these efforts continue across the lineup.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Want to see it in action? Hodinkee also has a fantastic video review of the Tambour here.
Best Flyer GMT: Lorier Hydra SIII Zulu
2023 was a big year in the world of affordable GMTs. The release of the new Miyota 9075 brought life to a previously non-existent category of sub $1,000 Flyer GMTs. Prior to this, the lowest priced Flyer GMTs on the market were around $1,500 or more. This new Miyota movement has allowed many micro-brands to now offer the same flyer GMT functionality at a literal fraction of the previous price - many just above the $500 mark. This is very exciting for GMT lovers (like myself), and hopefully we will only continue to see more affordable flyer GMTs in the future.
Of all the releases using the new Miyota 9075 movement, my personal favorite is the Lorier Hydra SIII Zulu edition. This watch has it all - its got a dive bezel, lumed inner 24 hour dial ring, and a red 24 hour hand seated in a matte black PVD case. This version of the Hydra III retains the same 41mm case size as the previous model, so it still wears well with it’s short lug-to-lug distance. Lorier even included a press photo on a 6 inch wrist, as if to prove that even the small wristed enthusiasts (i.e. me) can still pull it off. This Zulu edition also features some vintage-inspired design elements - the hesalite crystal provides a vintage warmth and shatter resistance, and the deep yellow faux-patina lume looks great while keeping the watch legible.
We’re approaching the golden age of affordable flyer GMTs, and as more movements become available, I can only hope we will continue to see more GMTs at affordable prices. The value delivered from the Lorier Hydra III Zulu sets the bar high out of the gate. While the design might not be for everyone, I still don’t question whether the Zulu edition will be a success. This watch made me seriously consider (multiple times) whether I should be adding it to my personal collection. The Zulu edition offers unparalleled value and ticks all the right design boxes for my personal taste. It is a affordable GMT diver that looks as if it was pulled right out of your favorite 80s action film. It also features modern technology, and is at a fair price point. All in, if the aesthetics work for you, this value proposition is a tough one to beat.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Titanium Pick: Rolex Yachtmaster 42
They did it - Rolex finally gave us a titanium Yachtmaster in 2023. The titanium Yachtmaster has been a known possibility the last three years, since a prototype was featured in a Rolex magazine. This prototype was given to Sir Ben Ainslie in 2020 for him to test during his excursions - lots of exploration and outdoors activities. The titanium Yachtmaster appears to have held up well enough for Rolex to finally make it a part of the catalog in 2023.
The new Yachtmaster 42 isn’t just made from normal titanium - instead, it’s made from RLX Titanium, Rolex's proprietary alloy. The watch also features a matte black dial and a black ceramic bezel insert with polished numerals and markers, very similar to the outgoing white gold Oysterflex Yachtmaster 42. The new Yachtmaster also comes on a full titanium bracelet, and this seems to be the main difference between Sir Ben Ainslie's prototype and the new production model. Sir Ben wore his prototype solely on a NATO-style strap, and TBH, it looks pretty rad. Since first learned about the prototype, I was secretly hoping for a production version on this strap - at this point it doesn’t seem like it will ever happen, but I won't completely cross it off the list. That said, there is nothing stopping an owner of the new Yachtmaster 42 from wearing the watch on their favorite NATO strap.
The new case is also different than all previous versions of the Yachtmaster. The titanium version now features a flatter, slab-sided case. Rolex also added beautiful case chamfers to the new Yachtmaster’s case. These changes gives the Yachtmaster a much more rugged look and greatly reduces previously flashy appearance of the Yachtmaster line.
I find it odd that Rolex has two very different versions of the Yachtmaster in their current catalog. This begs the question - is this the future of the Yachtmaster range? Or is it simply a more rugged variation of the Yachtmaster going forward? I'm curious to see the direction Rolex takes in the lineup going forward, and personally would love to see this watch in a 40mm variant. I love my Pelagos and the new Yachtmaster has a very similar feel - the case size is the same, it is titanium, and also has a tool-oriented matte and brushed finishes. I could absolutely see it fitting in my current lineup, or even replacing the Pelagos as a whole. That said - there is a clear premium to the RLX Titanium, and while there isn't a true price comparison (the existing steel models only come in 37mm and 40mm sizes) there is a price premium of $1,750 between the 40mm steel Yachtmaster and the 42mm RLX Titanium version. The Yachtmaster lineup feels like the least cohesive range in the current catalog, so it wouldn’t surprise me if we saw further updates at Watches and Wonders. Rolex gave us what we wanted, but now we get to sit tight while they show us the future Yachtmaster namesake.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Subtle Sleeper: Doxa Army
The Doxa Army is a polarizing watch for some collectors. It has been the one vintage watch that true collectors have wanted for years, but independently owned Synchron brand beat Doxa to a reissue. Doxa originally released the first version of the Doxa Army as a Watches of Switzerland Edition back in 2022. This watch came with a black ceramic case and was a numbered edition of 500 pieces. In 2023, Doxa finally released a permanent, non-limited collection of the Army.
The permanent collection consists of models with black and green steel bezels with ceramic inserts, and a bronze bezel with a green ceramic insert. The different variants can be hand on either rubber straps or Doxa's standard beads of rice bracelet. While Synchron did beat Doxa back to the Army, I do think this permanent line still does offer good value for money. All variations retail for between $2,050 and $2,290, keeping the watches accessible to most enthusiasts.
Having owned both a Doxa and the Synchron Military Diver in the past, I love the history behind this release. The general aesthetic is very vintage driven in a modern package. Of the military dials, my favorite is still the Watches of Switzerland matte black ceramic version, but that was a limited edition of 200 pieces that sold out very quickly. This Doxa Army is something that scratches the same itch from the original brand, and is readily available in Doxa authorized dealers as well as online. Doxa is also one of the few brands that hasn't seen absurd price increases the past few years, so it is refreshing this lineup still stays in the typical price range. The last feature to point out, is it comes with a rad zipper case and NATO in a camo pattern - the same pattern that came with the WOS limited edition. If I were to get one, it would probably live on that camo NATO. Its very tough to argue with this watch, the total package is worth checking out.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Wrap Up - More to Come
The year 2023 gave us a lot of watches to talk about - way too many to fit in this list. There are many more that pained me to remove from this article, but for your sake (and mine) I only picked my top ones. I hope you enjoyed this read - stay tuned for another set of five picks for next week.
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