2023 Watch Awards - Part 2
The second set of my favorite watch releases of 2023.
Here we go again - welcome to the second part of my top picks from 2023. If you haven't read part one, I suggest you stop reading this now and take a look at part one here. Now, lets continue with five more of my favorite watches of 2023.
Best Vintage Inspired: Monteblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher P.05 by Collective Horology
I first ran across the Monteblanc 1958 Monopusher P.05 as many enthusiasts do - scrolling through Instagram. When I passed this new edition with Collective Horology, I distinctly remember doing a double take, and then scrolling back up to view it again. The dial colors and design of the bi-compax chronograph really drew me in. Now, who the heck is Minerva? While I had heard the name before, I didn't really know who they were or where they came from until I started doing some digging.
Starting under a different name, H. C. Robert, the brand is a more than 160 year old Swiss watchmaking company. They added the Minerva name in 1887, and fast forward more than 100 years later, Montblanc acquired the Minerva brand in 2007. Monteblanc has owned and created other watches under the Minerva name since, but these watches were not made available to the mass markets. Instead, they have approached the Minerva brand as a haute-horology line of the Montblanc portfolio - which is probably the reason you haven't heard much about them.
The Montblanc 1858 Minverva Monopusher P.05 (I know, a mouthful) is a collaboration between Montblanc and Collective Horology. This watch took many years to create, and has evolved to be an absolute killer release. It is loosely inspired by the Minerva Red Arrow chronograph with other design elements taken from Minerva stopwatches, all with a modern twist. This is no re-edition - instead it's a tasteful new composition inspired by the past, but is very much a watch of the modern era.
While the white gold bezel looks fixed, it actually is a friction fit rotating bezel. The watch has a snail tachymeter scale in the middle of the dial, surrounded by a telemeter scale around the periphery. The scales on the dial have some punchy colors - the blue of the scales and the cream of the subdials contrast perfectly with the gorgeous glossy white dial. The cream bridges a perfect gap between retro and new, with the cream being more of a yellow hue instead of a fauxtina feel. The 13.21 Calibre inside is a modern descendent of the very collectable Minerva Calibre 13.20. Beauty seems to be a theme through out, and the movement is no exception. Entirely hand finished, it looks just as gorgeous as the dial (if not better) through its sapphire exhibition caseback. Topping it off, the Calibre 13.21 is also a monopusher hand wound chronograph - no detail spared in the creation of this watch. While this limited edition isn't cheap, this definitely brings back the watchmaking love from these early Minerva influences.
Collective Horology clearly took the approach of - what would the watch look like today if it evolved through the years? I appreciate the overall execution of this piece, and it stays true to the modern Minerva brand while paying proper tribute to the it's past. The dial is double-signed, with the Montblanc logo at the top of the dial and then it has the famous "Arrow Head" Minerva logo on near the 6 o'clock marker, tying to the signature Devil's Tail on the vertical clutch of the movement. This is a great limited edition that was executed thoughtfully, and a marvel to visually enjoy. This is one of the few vintage inspired watches that doesn't step on the toes of the past, but also executes the essence of Minerva brand in a perfect modern interpretation.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Worth Every Penny: Scurfa M.S. 23
In 2023, I was finally able to get hands on with a Scurfa Diver One... and it didn't take long to understand why so many people love this watch. Throughout the year, I had the chance to try a few different variations of the Diver One, and then I was lucky enough to snag the ultimate Diver One straight from Scurfa - the M.S. 23. The M.S. versions of the Diver One are exactly what I had been looking for in a everyday, easy-going quartz diver.
Each year, Scurfa has a 100 piece limited edition of Military Spec (thus the M.S. naming) watches that vary slightly from the standard Diver One watches. The M.S. variants are titanium Diver Ones with an all brushed case, Heliox escape valve, and differentiate from the normal variants by its fully graduated bezel and individually numbered caseback. This year, Scurfa also upgraded the movement to an ETA movement with a longer battery life and an end of life (EOL) indicator. The M.S. versions also come with the standard Diver One rubber strap and an additional NATO strap. Scurfa alternates each year between blue and black configurations for the M.S. limited editions each year, so this year's 2024 M.S. edition will feature a black dial, bezel, and rubber strap. These limited editions are also extremely sought after and typically sell out within minutes. So if you want one in 2024, you'll need to be ready when it is released.
The Diver One originated from a commercial diver, Mr. Paul Scurfield, who originally created it as a reasonably priced tool watch for him and his friends while diving. Paul had previously worn (now) much more expensive dive watches such as the Rolex Submariner, but after the value was creeping up in price, he wanted something he wouldn't have to worry about. He is still a commercial diver today, and Scurfa is more of a passion project for him at the moment.
I have yet to come across a better grab-and-go, apocalypse-ready analog watch than the M.S. 23. The build quality and finishing is absolutely top-tier, packing huge value for a watch around the $350 USD mark. After owning one and falling in love, I completely get why there is an insane demand for Scurfa watches. These watches have been praised by many for years, and more recently have made their way into the spotlight of the industry. This is likely a contributing factor to how damn quick these small batches of Scurfa watches sell out. If you want one, you'll have to keep close tabs on their website - they seem to disappear just as quickly as they appeared on the site. If you want a true tool watch, at a price you can feel comfortable wearing it daily, its near impossible to go wrong with the Scurfa Diver One.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Best Stone Dial: Rolex Day-Date Carnelian Dial
The Rolex Day-Date with the Carnelian dial was first seen in Rolex's teaser video for Watches and Wonders 2023. There was enough in the video to identify it as a Day-Date, but what the heck was the dial material? A few days later in the Watches and Wonder reveal it was revealed the dial is made from carnelian - a semi-precious stone made from silicon dioxide. After a bit more research, carnelian has a broad color spectrum. The stone ranges from a pale orange to dark-black brown color, and Rolex picked the most vibrant hue of the stone. Somehow, it appears Rolex is able to keep the dial colors and textures somewhat consistent from dial to dial.
Carnelian has been used for jewelry dating back to 5000 BC. It is also a harder stone, and its Mohs scale rating of around 7 - this is comparable to quartz and adds to the complexity of cutting and finishing the dial. The yellow gold Roman numerals add to the intricate details of the dial and adding to its subtle exotic bling. The Day-Date's hands are lume-free yellow gold and pair perfectly with the orange dial. The dial is also only available in the classically-sized 36mm case. 50 years later, Rolex still has yet to disappoint us with their stone dials, and the use of a new material to achieve punchy yellow and orange hues is no exception to this.
This Day-Date is one of my favorite releases from Rolex in 2023. I love seeing Rolex continue to use new stones and materials for dials. Since the 1970s, they have used too many types of stone dials to count. This watch still has the old school charm of the first stone dials with a modern approach. The dial finishing and modern Rolex quality keep the yearn for a rare exotic Day-Date alive. I love that they kept the classic 36mm size, keeping it true to its roots and wearable for all wrist sizes. The carnelian dial is the perfect luxury twist on a modern, exotic reference. This variation was executed beautifully, and is the perfect addition for anyone looking for a Day-Date with a unique twist - assuming you have the funds and access to purchase it.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Coolest Dial: Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
Later in the year Oris came out with a watch that intrigued many - a version of the ProPilot X with a wild, Laser dial. This isn't the first time Oris has had fun with the ProPilot X dials. This new Laser dial's color is not created by normal pigmented colors, but instead a laser treatment that reflects blues, greens, and violets. I can't speak to the dial from a first hand experience (yet), but it appears to have a iridescent affect similar to a mother of pearl. I think the dial looks equally masculine as it does feminine, and with the ProPilot X's smaller 39mm case, this watch can be worn by anyone.
While the dial is very cool, the watch also doesn't fall short on its overall package - I think it is one of the strongest offerings in Oris' current lineup. The entire case and bracelet are made from titanium, keeping the total package light. Powering the watch is Oris' own Calibre 400, a modern movement boasting five days of power reserve. The design is distinctively Oris and the ProPilot X can easily be spotted across the room.Â
This watch also wear exceptionally well on wrist, regardless of size. For a non-stone dial pick, this has to be one of the most unique dial offerings of 2023. Even if the Laser dial isn't in you're wheelhouse, there are many other options across the range. It's hard to go wrong with the grey, navy, salmon, or a green Kermit edition (my second pick). Oris has been making a move up-market the last few years, but as a total package this is still a solid value for the money. Secondhand prices for the ProPilot X also turns the solid value into screaming value, so if the retail price is a bit steep for you, waiting for these to hit the secondary market is the way to go.Â
More details about the watch can be found here.
Best Design Execution: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel
When it was released, I got really excited for the AP Code 11.59. It was definitely not a watch anyone was expecting, but it seemed to just make so much sense when it was unveiled. I distinctly remember following the event hosted by AP on social media through a few attendees (Mr. Ben Clymer and John Mayer), and boy was I surprised with the watch. It feels like a watch from the future - a perfect combination of the Code 11.59 aesthetic with the historically significant AP Starwheel complication.
The Starwheel brought back the wandering hours complication that has slowly grown in popularity since being released as a more formal dress watch in the early 1990s. This watch movement only features hours, minutes, and seconds, but complication is how the time is read - which is a completely different way than we are conditioned to read it. Instead of a normal hour, minutes, and seconds hands, the three disks rotate around the dial to determine the time. The disks designating the hour, and the minutes are determined by where the hour numeral arrow is on the minute track between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock markers. The Starwheel feature a central seconds hand, which is a new addition to the previously released AP Starwheels. The seconds hand does continue the theme of a modern, technically advanced design. The 41mm Code 11.59 case is made from two materials - white gold for the lugs and frame of the case, and the mid-case is made from black ceramic. The materials work well with the watches overall design, and it gives off a strong modern feel without feeling to precious.Â
The Starwheel is the first version of the Code 11.59 that I have really liked - if somehow I could afford its $50,000+ asking price, it would be my non-Royal Oak pick in AP’s current catalog. It's bold design is instantly recognizable by enthusiasts, but could also easily be confused as a cartoonist and fun watch for people not-in-the-know. Its unique and well executed, and AP's watchmaking efforts have made a watch that is pure fun. The Starwheel seemed to be a curveball at its release, but it really does just seem to make sense with their history. The watch also has been quite the hit.
If you ask me, it was a good first step to help establish the Code 11.59 series as it's own for the future. While we had lots of Royal Oak releases in 2023, there were quite a few serious Code 11.59 releases that have made me take a second look. The Starwheel was one of my favorites of the Code 11.59 releases. I am honestly starting to think Audemars Piguet has something with the Code 11.59 series - unfortunately we will have to sit tight for another couple decades to find out.
More details about the watch can be found here.
Wrap Up - More to Come
I hope you enjoyed this read - stay tuned for the final set of five picks for next week.
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Just wanted to shout out how much I’m loving the Rolex Day-Date with the Carnelian dial! The rich, vibrant color of the carnelian stone really makes it pop, and I love how it blends classic Rolex style with something a bit different. The 36mm size feels just right, and the overall design is a perfect mix of modern luxury and timeless elegance. It’s definitely a standout piece in my collection! https://diamondsourcenyc.com/collections/rolex-day-date-36-watches